Chocolate History
The Mesoamerican period
Originally, cocoa could only be found in Central and South America in an area then known as Mesoamerica. The region extended across today’s Mexico, Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua.
The Olmecs(1500 – 400BC) were the first people to inhabit the region and probably also the first to use cocoa in their food. Unfortunately, very little is known about their lives although they did leave behind a number of archaeological finds - including a type of hieroglyphics. By analyzing this and the language spoken by a small group of their descendants, the Mixe-Zoquean tribe, linguists have established that the Olmecs probably called cocoa ‘kakawa’. It was used together with other local foods such as maize, chili and beans.
The Mayans called cocoa, kakaw.
Primarily reserved for the elite, cocoa was a luxury food item used by the Mayans on special occasions such as feasts and festivals. It was also their currency. Back then, money did, quite literally, grow on trees! It was ground using a metate (a stone mortar, see photo) together with other basic foodstuffs. If it was to be extra fine, only flavorings were added, e.g. ikal is kakaw with chili.
One reason much is known about the Mayans is that the Quiche Mayan scribes secretly rewrote and preserved hieroglyphic documents when the Spanish settled. One such document, the Popol Vuh, described their beliefs and entire religious structure, including important gods such as Ek Chuah, the god of merchants and cocoa.
Cocoa and the ToltecsThe Toltecs took control of Mesoamerica from c. 900AD, basing their empire on the remains of the Mayan civilization. They too had a penchant for cocoa. They believed that the tree was a gift from their priest god, Quetzalcoatl (the feathered serpent god). Quetzalcoatl had been banished by the other gods, but had bestowed the tree on the people as a gift when he vowed to them that he would return
Originally, cocoa could only be found in Central and South America in an area then known as Mesoamerica. The region extended across today’s Mexico, Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua.
The Olmecs(1500 – 400BC) were the first people to inhabit the region and probably also the first to use cocoa in their food. Unfortunately, very little is known about their lives although they did leave behind a number of archaeological finds - including a type of hieroglyphics. By analyzing this and the language spoken by a small group of their descendants, the Mixe-Zoquean tribe, linguists have established that the Olmecs probably called cocoa ‘kakawa’. It was used together with other local foods such as maize, chili and beans.
The Mayans called cocoa, kakaw.
Primarily reserved for the elite, cocoa was a luxury food item used by the Mayans on special occasions such as feasts and festivals. It was also their currency. Back then, money did, quite literally, grow on trees! It was ground using a metate (a stone mortar, see photo) together with other basic foodstuffs. If it was to be extra fine, only flavorings were added, e.g. ikal is kakaw with chili.
One reason much is known about the Mayans is that the Quiche Mayan scribes secretly rewrote and preserved hieroglyphic documents when the Spanish settled. One such document, the Popol Vuh, described their beliefs and entire religious structure, including important gods such as Ek Chuah, the god of merchants and cocoa.
Cocoa and the ToltecsThe Toltecs took control of Mesoamerica from c. 900AD, basing their empire on the remains of the Mayan civilization. They too had a penchant for cocoa. They believed that the tree was a gift from their priest god, Quetzalcoatl (the feathered serpent god). Quetzalcoatl had been banished by the other gods, but had bestowed the tree on the people as a gift when he vowed to them that he would return
From America to Europe
Christopher Columbus discovered America in 1492, but it wasn’t until his fourth voyage in 1502 that he was introduced to cacao on the island of Guanaja, The Island was a lively trade centre, and cocoa beans were used as currency. Columbus later referred to them as a kind of almond when he recounted his experiences to the Spanish royal family.
The commercial potential of cocoa was not realized until Hernan Cortés’ voyage to America in 1519. He landed in Tenochtitlan where he met the Aztec king, Montezuma. According to legend, Montezuma mistakenly believed Cortés to be the returning god Quetzalhuatl. Cortés was invited to a religious festival involving masses of cocoa where he noticed Montezuma consumed up to 50 cups a day. Cortés eventually challenged Montezuma to a fight, which he won, and as a reward Cortés became Spain’s first governor of the new world in 1521. Cortés planted Cocoa trees throughout the Caribbean and introduced the Spanish king to the wonders of this new treasure in 1528.
From gods to kings
South America’s ‘food of the Gods’ also became an elitist drink in Europe. The Spaniards had a monopoly on the cocoa market for almost a century and were responsible for developing a recipe better suited to the European palette.
This changed in 1606, when Italian explorer Francesco Carletti arranged the first direct deliveries from El Salvador to Italy. Those who held power in Italy at the time and were responsible for this trade, were extremely hard on the indigenous people of the new world.
France was not far behind and in 1615, cocoa arrived with the Spanish/Austrian princess Anna. She wed Louis XIII in an arranged marriage between two 14-year-olds.
The popularity of cocoa continued to spread across the continent and the Spaniards ruthlessly exploited their colonies to try and keep up with the increasing demand. At the time, Criollo was one of the finest and most common cocoa varietals, but today the plant is threatened from over harvesting. The local population also suffered under the Spaniards – both due to mistreatment and as a result of unfamiliar diseases.
Eventually, other areas were discovered, and new varieties came on the market including Arriba (“distant areas”) from Ecuador. The Portuguese acquired their Forasteros (“stranger”) cocoa beans from Amazonas.
From kings to Bourgeoisie
Cocoa continued to spread to more countries throughout the 17th century. In true pirate style, the Dutch challenged the Spaniards for their locations in the Caribbean and the English took over Jamaica from Spain in 1655 to secure a permanent source of supply. Coffee, tea and cocoa arrived in the British Isles at about the same time, giving rise to a trend for coffee houses that were frequented by the Bourgeoisie.
Cocoa did not establish in Denmark until the 18th century, where for many years it was used as a pharmaceutical product. In fact, the founders of the chocolate houses Toms, Trojel and Meyer were all pharmacists.
Christopher Columbus discovered America in 1492, but it wasn’t until his fourth voyage in 1502 that he was introduced to cacao on the island of Guanaja, The Island was a lively trade centre, and cocoa beans were used as currency. Columbus later referred to them as a kind of almond when he recounted his experiences to the Spanish royal family.
The commercial potential of cocoa was not realized until Hernan Cortés’ voyage to America in 1519. He landed in Tenochtitlan where he met the Aztec king, Montezuma. According to legend, Montezuma mistakenly believed Cortés to be the returning god Quetzalhuatl. Cortés was invited to a religious festival involving masses of cocoa where he noticed Montezuma consumed up to 50 cups a day. Cortés eventually challenged Montezuma to a fight, which he won, and as a reward Cortés became Spain’s first governor of the new world in 1521. Cortés planted Cocoa trees throughout the Caribbean and introduced the Spanish king to the wonders of this new treasure in 1528.
From gods to kings
South America’s ‘food of the Gods’ also became an elitist drink in Europe. The Spaniards had a monopoly on the cocoa market for almost a century and were responsible for developing a recipe better suited to the European palette.
This changed in 1606, when Italian explorer Francesco Carletti arranged the first direct deliveries from El Salvador to Italy. Those who held power in Italy at the time and were responsible for this trade, were extremely hard on the indigenous people of the new world.
France was not far behind and in 1615, cocoa arrived with the Spanish/Austrian princess Anna. She wed Louis XIII in an arranged marriage between two 14-year-olds.
The popularity of cocoa continued to spread across the continent and the Spaniards ruthlessly exploited their colonies to try and keep up with the increasing demand. At the time, Criollo was one of the finest and most common cocoa varietals, but today the plant is threatened from over harvesting. The local population also suffered under the Spaniards – both due to mistreatment and as a result of unfamiliar diseases.
Eventually, other areas were discovered, and new varieties came on the market including Arriba (“distant areas”) from Ecuador. The Portuguese acquired their Forasteros (“stranger”) cocoa beans from Amazonas.
From kings to Bourgeoisie
Cocoa continued to spread to more countries throughout the 17th century. In true pirate style, the Dutch challenged the Spaniards for their locations in the Caribbean and the English took over Jamaica from Spain in 1655 to secure a permanent source of supply. Coffee, tea and cocoa arrived in the British Isles at about the same time, giving rise to a trend for coffee houses that were frequented by the Bourgeoisie.
Cocoa did not establish in Denmark until the 18th century, where for many years it was used as a pharmaceutical product. In fact, the founders of the chocolate houses Toms, Trojel and Meyer were all pharmacists.
A drink becomes edible
In years past, making hot chocolate was a rather complicated endeavour requiring special equipment such as a chocolatière and molinillo (whisk). In order to make the product more accessible and easier to produce, some of the cocoa butter had to be removed.
In 1828, Dutchman Coenraad Van Houten came up with a method for pressing the fat from roasted cocoa beans to create cocoa powder. (Cocoa butter makes up 55% of the cocoa bean). The popular product soon came to be known as Dutch cocoa and was the basis for edible chocolate.
The first chocolate bar was moulded in Bristol, England in 1847 by Joseph Fry the Younger. Peter Daniel from Nestlé in Switzerland went a step further by adding milk powder to the chocolate, thus creating the first milk chocolate in 1875.
In 1879, Rudolphe Lindt further refined the product when he discovered a method of airing chocolate in a so-called conche (conche means shell). This process removes bitter flavours without impairing desirable aspects of the taste –much similar to decanting wine.
The invention of edible chocolate led to a huge rise in the demand for cocoa beans and cultivation spread to new regions including Africa. Today, Ghana and the Ivory Coast account for almost half of the beans produced for the global market.
From quantity to quality
A number of chocolate manufacturers were established in the second half of the 19th century that focused their efforts on creating top quality products instead of mass quantities. Among them were Anthon Berg in 1884 and Galle & Jessen in 1872.
However, the two world wars brought this new wave of chocolate manufacturing to a halt, with raw materials being in scarce supply up until the 1950s. Things began to pick up again from the 1960s onwards.
Whereas chocolate was once something to be enjoyed on special occasions, it had become an every day product.
In years past, making hot chocolate was a rather complicated endeavour requiring special equipment such as a chocolatière and molinillo (whisk). In order to make the product more accessible and easier to produce, some of the cocoa butter had to be removed.
In 1828, Dutchman Coenraad Van Houten came up with a method for pressing the fat from roasted cocoa beans to create cocoa powder. (Cocoa butter makes up 55% of the cocoa bean). The popular product soon came to be known as Dutch cocoa and was the basis for edible chocolate.
The first chocolate bar was moulded in Bristol, England in 1847 by Joseph Fry the Younger. Peter Daniel from Nestlé in Switzerland went a step further by adding milk powder to the chocolate, thus creating the first milk chocolate in 1875.
In 1879, Rudolphe Lindt further refined the product when he discovered a method of airing chocolate in a so-called conche (conche means shell). This process removes bitter flavours without impairing desirable aspects of the taste –much similar to decanting wine.
The invention of edible chocolate led to a huge rise in the demand for cocoa beans and cultivation spread to new regions including Africa. Today, Ghana and the Ivory Coast account for almost half of the beans produced for the global market.
From quantity to quality
A number of chocolate manufacturers were established in the second half of the 19th century that focused their efforts on creating top quality products instead of mass quantities. Among them were Anthon Berg in 1884 and Galle & Jessen in 1872.
However, the two world wars brought this new wave of chocolate manufacturing to a halt, with raw materials being in scarce supply up until the 1950s. Things began to pick up again from the 1960s onwards.
Whereas chocolate was once something to be enjoyed on special occasions, it had become an every day product.
