Study Guide/ Reader
Astoria, Seaside & Cannon Beach, Tillamook areas below.
Imagine this as we arrive at the Coast--Early visitors came by buckboard and horseback from the Willamette Valley, so excited at the prospect of the beach that they were willing to travel 2 days over a mountain pass to achieve a glimpse of the ocean and hold sand in their own hands. Many of these early settlers came from the Midwest on the Oregon trail, and had never seen the ocean. Imagine their reaction as they crested the last hill.
Campgrounds and lodging to accommodate these vacationers were some of the Coast's 1st business endeavors. The other focus was fish. Salmon swam thick as seaweed in the inlet bays along the entire coastline. In the 1800s, commercial canneries thrived for many decades, canning and shipping millions of cans a year. Fishing, logging and eventually dairy farming were the primary occupations back then."
Astoria
See podcasts.
Our 1st stop approaching Astoria will be searching for Bald Eagles and other wildlife in the marsh at the Twilight Eagle Sanctuary - 100 acres of tidal wetlands and old-growth forest at the site of the Lewis and Clark campsite on November 26, 1805 on their way to winter over at Fort Clatsop.
Captain Clark writes..."... we proceeded on through a Deep bend to the South and encamped under a high hill, where we found much difficulty in precureing wood to burn, as it was raining hard, as it had been the greater part of the day ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805]
And Sergeant Ordway writes..."... the day rainy and cold. we went on passed. Several low marshey Islands which was covered with course grass, and willows the Shore is high land covered thick with pine timber and under brush. we Camped in a thick part of wood ..." [Ordway, November 26, 1805]
Our 1st stop approaching Astoria will be searching for Bald Eagles and other wildlife in the marsh at the Twilight Eagle Sanctuary - 100 acres of tidal wetlands and old-growth forest at the site of the Lewis and Clark campsite on November 26, 1805 on their way to winter over at Fort Clatsop.
Captain Clark writes..."... we proceeded on through a Deep bend to the South and encamped under a high hill, where we found much difficulty in precureing wood to burn, as it was raining hard, as it had been the greater part of the day ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805]
And Sergeant Ordway writes..."... the day rainy and cold. we went on passed. Several low marshey Islands which was covered with course grass, and willows the Shore is high land covered thick with pine timber and under brush. we Camped in a thick part of wood ..." [Ordway, November 26, 1805]
Columbia River Bar/ Shipwrecks History:
The Columbia river was first sited in 1775 by the Spanish navigator Bruno de Hezeta (aka Heceta) who mistook the estuary for an inland bay, although its seething currents indicated to him that "it may be the mouth of some great river or some passage to another sea." He did not attempt to enter. Before there were lighthouses on the Peninsula, ships bound for Portland and Astoria navigated their way through the high waves and shifting sandbars, focusing on fluttering white flags and notched trees along the shoreline by day and flickering signal fires by night. These methods were crude at best and, despite heroic efforts, the sea offshore the Long Beach Peninsula (the Columbia River Bar') became known as 'The Graveyard of the Pacific'. More on that in a moment!
The Columbia river was first sited in 1775 by the Spanish navigator Bruno de Hezeta (aka Heceta) who mistook the estuary for an inland bay, although its seething currents indicated to him that "it may be the mouth of some great river or some passage to another sea." He did not attempt to enter. Before there were lighthouses on the Peninsula, ships bound for Portland and Astoria navigated their way through the high waves and shifting sandbars, focusing on fluttering white flags and notched trees along the shoreline by day and flickering signal fires by night. These methods were crude at best and, despite heroic efforts, the sea offshore the Long Beach Peninsula (the Columbia River Bar') became known as 'The Graveyard of the Pacific'. More on that in a moment!
The source of Oregon is not Portland, it is Astoria, perhaps the most Oregon place in Oregon.
It's the oldest settlement west of the Rockies, established in 1811 at Fort Astoria, with other historic forts being Fort Clatsop and Fort Stevens. It is dotted with Victorian-era homes and a 1920s Art Deco downtown, set in the backdrop of where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean...
It's the oldest settlement west of the Rockies, established in 1811 at Fort Astoria, with other historic forts being Fort Clatsop and Fort Stevens. It is dotted with Victorian-era homes and a 1920s Art Deco downtown, set in the backdrop of where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean...
From the barnacled piers of cannery docks to the painted gingerbread of Victorian mansions, this picturesque city on the Columbia River wears its history of fishing and logging with a salty pride.
By 1880, half of the fish canneries on the lower Columbia River were located in Astoria. The dangerous nature of fishing on the Columbia near the mouth of the river attracted a sizable and unruly assortment of transient fishermen during the spring salmon run. This, and perhaps because of its Shanghaiing trade (where ship captains paid bartenders and others to drug single intoxicated men that hung out in the waterfront area in order to lure them into the dark underground tunnels), earned Astoria a very rowdy reputation. It was a wild-west port town which became known as perhaps "The Most Wicked Place On Earth".
30-second History
Clatsop Indians lived here for thousands of years. In 1792, Capt. Robert Gray found the mouth of the River and sailed in with his ship, the Columbia Rediviva. In 1805, Lewis and Clark led their Expedition here and spent the winter at Fort Clatsop, just south of town. Astoria is the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, dating from the fur trading post set up by John Jacob Astor’s men in 1811. There’s a small park and a partial replica at the site of the original post at 15th and Franklin John Jacob Astor never visited Astoria.
The United States and England went to war in 1812. In 1813 a British warship sailed into the Columbia River to capture the post and take control of the fur trade. Astor’s fur traders beat them to the punch by selling the post to the British NorthWest Company. From 1813 to 1818, the British owned Astoria and it was known as Fort George. In 1818, a treaty with England established joint occupation of the Oregon Country, as it was called then. The boundary was set at the 49th Parallel. The British did not completely abandon Astoria until 1846.
A hundred years ago, Astoria was the second largest city in Oregon with a population of 8,975. The population now is just over 10,000.
Clatsop Indians lived here for thousands of years. In 1792, Capt. Robert Gray found the mouth of the River and sailed in with his ship, the Columbia Rediviva. In 1805, Lewis and Clark led their Expedition here and spent the winter at Fort Clatsop, just south of town. Astoria is the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, dating from the fur trading post set up by John Jacob Astor’s men in 1811. There’s a small park and a partial replica at the site of the original post at 15th and Franklin John Jacob Astor never visited Astoria.
The United States and England went to war in 1812. In 1813 a British warship sailed into the Columbia River to capture the post and take control of the fur trade. Astor’s fur traders beat them to the punch by selling the post to the British NorthWest Company. From 1813 to 1818, the British owned Astoria and it was known as Fort George. In 1818, a treaty with England established joint occupation of the Oregon Country, as it was called then. The boundary was set at the 49th Parallel. The British did not completely abandon Astoria until 1846.
A hundred years ago, Astoria was the second largest city in Oregon with a population of 8,975. The population now is just over 10,000.
It's a town built on disasters:
- With more than 2000 shipwrecks on the north coast, often with whole crews lost, the Columbia River Bar at Astoria accounts for about 300 of those, to became known as 'the World's Most Dangerous Bar' and the "the graveyard of the Pacific".
- Then was the great fire of 1922 which swept through all of downtown, destroying it.
- The 3rd defining disaster was the complete collapse of the tuna-canning and logging industries in the 1980s. It has always been a 'drinking town with a fishing problem'--designed by drunks for drunks. And so it's fitting that the town's economic salvation took place when Astoria rebuilt on beer with the opening of Fort George Brewery in 2004, with many others following.
There is lots to see & do in Astoria.
Fort Stevens:
Front-Row Ocean Action-
Front-Row Ocean Action-
- For military buffs, Historical Fort Stevens (military: built in 1863; Civil War to WWI to WWII). Site of a Clatsop town noted by Captain Clark. Interpretive center on military life and trails. At this former military fort you can walk through the fort ruins. From there, you can get a good look at the mouth on the Columbia and imagine what crossing the bar has meant to seafaring men over the past 200 years. You can also take a tour underground through a rare gun battery that also served as a World War II command center, ride in the back of a period military transport truck and see the fortifications from a whole new perspective, and get a feel for what the inside of a military jail was like as you walk through one of the last brick constructed guard houses in the country.
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Fort Clatsop:
Relive the Frontier Feel- Being the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, Astoria and its surrounding areas has many historic things to see and stop at, including: For history buffs, Lewis & Clark National Historical Park (VIDEO). The 1805-1806 winter camp of the Corps of Discovery for over 100 days, only 12 without rain. Replica fort (where a timber-beam structure re-creates Fort Clatsop at was is thought to be the original site, using the same type of logs cut the same way, the fort looks, feels and smells as it must have been), visitor center, bookstore, canoe landing and 6-mile Fort to Sea Trail. Discover what life was like for the expedition party. For a one-hour visit, stroll a 0.4-mile loop path from a visitor center to the fort. $5 pp. |
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Seaside & Cannon Beach
EAT BREAKFAST WITH LUMBERJACKS
Some 1 hour west of Portland, down the wicked curves of State Highway 26, the Camp 18 Restaurant's (open Sun-Thurs 8AM to 7PM & Fri-Sat 8AM to 8PM) old-timey log cabin with hand-carved old-growth fir front doors and a dining table made from old-growth tree stumps (The restaurant serves country favorites breakfast, salads and soups, burgers and sandwiches, entrees and scratch-made cinnamon rolls the size of catcher's mitts ($7) served with churned butter). Then there’s the location...
Camp 18 is a hand carved loggers monument. Part open-air machinery museum, part Loggers Memorial, part roadside souvenir shop and all chainsaw-sculpture garden, the life's work of lumberman Gordon Smith, all folded deep within the Tillamook Forest. A Dining & Logging Experience You Do Not Want To Miss!
Some 1 hour west of Portland, down the wicked curves of State Highway 26, the Camp 18 Restaurant's (open Sun-Thurs 8AM to 7PM & Fri-Sat 8AM to 8PM) old-timey log cabin with hand-carved old-growth fir front doors and a dining table made from old-growth tree stumps (The restaurant serves country favorites breakfast, salads and soups, burgers and sandwiches, entrees and scratch-made cinnamon rolls the size of catcher's mitts ($7) served with churned butter). Then there’s the location...
Camp 18 is a hand carved loggers monument. Part open-air machinery museum, part Loggers Memorial, part roadside souvenir shop and all chainsaw-sculpture garden, the life's work of lumberman Gordon Smith, all folded deep within the Tillamook Forest. A Dining & Logging Experience You Do Not Want To Miss!
Seaside, Oregon's first seaside resort, dating back to the mid 1800s. With a beachfront stretching 3 miles, a real Tilt-A-Whirl and the closest thing Oregon has to a boardwalk, you'll be nostalgic for the golden days. It's the standard-issue getaway for Portland kids (& adults) forever. But unlike Portland, Seaside hasn't changed over the decades. It's still full of shops selling kites, Roxy board shorts and trashy T-shirts. Where else can you ride a surrey while eating a caramel-apple and proudly wearing neon-green sweatpants and sweatshirts that say "Seaside".
As a beach resort, Seaside might be said to date to the winter of 1805-06, when explorers Lewis and Clark established a salt-making camp on the beach here, perhaps partly to escape the inland gloom of Fort Clatsop, where it rained almost daily.
Later Seaside became known as the end of the railroad. In the 1920s Portland families would board at 6:30am, bring breakfast to eat on the train, pile out for a few hours on the beach, and return in the evening—all for a 25-cent fare.
Today tourists crowd the strip of arcades, fast-food joints, and gift shops lining Broadway. Away from the neon lights, however, Seaside’s old-fashioned charm and picturesque natural setting have survived. The walking loop visits the best of old Seaside: the beachfront Promenade, the Necanicum River estuary, and the cottage-lined back streets.
As a beach resort, Seaside might be said to date to the winter of 1805-06, when explorers Lewis and Clark established a salt-making camp on the beach here, perhaps partly to escape the inland gloom of Fort Clatsop, where it rained almost daily.
Later Seaside became known as the end of the railroad. In the 1920s Portland families would board at 6:30am, bring breakfast to eat on the train, pile out for a few hours on the beach, and return in the evening—all for a 25-cent fare.
Today tourists crowd the strip of arcades, fast-food joints, and gift shops lining Broadway. Away from the neon lights, however, Seaside’s old-fashioned charm and picturesque natural setting have survived. The walking loop visits the best of old Seaside: the beachfront Promenade, the Necanicum River estuary, and the cottage-lined back streets.
Dooger's & Buoy's Best (ALL EATS)
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Our 1st stop fuel up for the rest of the day at Doogers Seafood & Grill where you will find steamer clams, scallops, crab cakes, fresh halibut and of course clam chowder. A visit to the Oregon coast just isn't complete without a steaming hot bowl of clam chowder... And don't forget to grab a Dooger's Chowder Kit on the way out.
OR Fuel up for the day at Buoy's Best. Seaside may not be a port town, but it knows some fishermen. Buoy's Best Restaurant (1800 S Roosevelt Dr., Seaside) has the finest, freshest seafood in town, straight from the Bell Buoy Fish Market next door. One of the only places approved to clean and sell razor clams, cut out the middleman and get the clam chowder, which made a respectable showing last year. It's rich & buttery thanks to an overnight marinade. Also be sure to grab oyster shooters ($3) and breaded cod with waffle fries ($10). |
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Boardwalk
Next we'll relive our childhood and amuse ourselves with 'Blasts from the Past' from the 1930s--
We'll stroll along the historic boardwalk to the promenade. Along the way we'll see the:
Next we'll relive our childhood and amuse ourselves with 'Blasts from the Past' from the 1930s--
We'll stroll along the historic boardwalk to the promenade. Along the way we'll see the:
- Funland Arcade, one of the country's last remaining Fascination parlors where players roll rubber balls across a bingo-style game table and attendants walk the aisles collecting money and handing out prize coupons while the announcer calls games over a microphone.
- Then, relive your childhood at the Seaside Carousel Mall to buy that CHEESY NEON green Seaside hoodie. You can't leave Seaside without it! (or at The Freedom Shop (111 Broadway).
- Or for $3, ride on vintage Lusse Auto Scooter bumper cars (like the 1953 model styled after the curvy, chromed-out Chevy's of its era). And an original Tilt-A-Whirl, all over 60 years old...
- Then head next door to Pronto Pup for a made-to-order corn dog.
- And last, it's not a cheesy beach trip until you've wandered into The Seaside Candyman (21 N Columbia St.). Here you can spin a giant wheel to win free taffy and popcorn. Here it's like a tiny beach-town take on Willy Wonka.
Promenade & Lewis & Clark
At the Promenade, a statue of Lewis and Clark greets you. By the time the expedition makes it to Fort Clatsop 15 miles north of here, their salt cache is gone. The captains sent five men to establish the salt camp here.
Join me for a visit to their salt-making camp. The Salt Works reconstruction is a 12 minute walk south. A block from the beach, the reconstructed salt oven shows how a small party from the Corps boiled saltwater for salt. Interpretive signs are there. Nearby, at the foot of Broadway St., is the End of the Trail Monument. They chose Seaside because the seawater had a high salt content, and the game and wood were abundant. Captain Clark pronounced the salt "excellent white and fine." They used the briny bounty to cure elk and other wild game for charcuterie to nibble alongside wild onions, licorice root and berries they traded with local tribes during their journey home.
At the Promenade, a statue of Lewis and Clark greets you. By the time the expedition makes it to Fort Clatsop 15 miles north of here, their salt cache is gone. The captains sent five men to establish the salt camp here.
Join me for a visit to their salt-making camp. The Salt Works reconstruction is a 12 minute walk south. A block from the beach, the reconstructed salt oven shows how a small party from the Corps boiled saltwater for salt. Interpretive signs are there. Nearby, at the foot of Broadway St., is the End of the Trail Monument. They chose Seaside because the seawater had a high salt content, and the game and wood were abundant. Captain Clark pronounced the salt "excellent white and fine." They used the briny bounty to cure elk and other wild game for charcuterie to nibble alongside wild onions, licorice root and berries they traded with local tribes during their journey home.
Cannon Beach:
Ecola SP
Having wound our way through a forest of Sitka Spruce at Ecola SP, we are now at our "dramatic coastal view" destination."
The view to your south illustrates the Oregon Coast’s geological past. High mountains from lava flows emanating from the 'Columbia River Basalt Group' tower over the shoreline. They are continually uplifted by the subducting oceanic plate below creating the coastal range, and eroded away by the sea. You can see Haystack Rock furthest back, our next stop, on the right. From various vantage points you can see the migration of the gray whale when 20,000 pass by here each winter and spring.
The waters off the Oregon coast are said to be amongst the roughest and most dangerous in the world. Shipwrecks were so common that it became known as the "Graveyard of the Pacific". In time, it became apparent, at this spot, that an effective lifesaving measure would be the construction of a lighthouse.
Tillamook Rock Lighthouse--the most notorious in the nation
See podcast.
Tillamook Rock (a volcanic sea stack just like Haystack Rock), located 1 mile out to sea was considered the best location. Here you are treated to your best view of one of the most desolate and unique lighthouses ever to exist in the US..., if not the entire world... Tillamook Rock Lighthouse (AKA "Terrible Tilly").
Terrible Tilly, the battered, besieged and occasionally submerged lighthouse clinging to the top of a a bleak island, operated from 1881 to 1957. "Terrible Tillys" light was repeatedly overswept by winter storms that dashed water, rocks and fish into the lantern room 150 feet above normal sea level, often breaking lenses and windows. For lighthouse keepers, it was the most demanding post on the West Coast.
With 525 wrenched days of construction, workers had to improvise to overcome the many challenges. 30 feet of rock was blasted to create a flat structure for workers to build on. They struggled through 3 winters, huddled in canvas shelters and behind stone walls, lashed by winds, soaked by breakers and often stuck for months without supplies. The construction claimed one man's life, a construction surveyor swept away by the surf and drowned in his attempt to land on the rock.
Just days before the final completion, workers heard a ship approaching in the night. The lighthouse was not prepared for lighting, so driftwood and lanterns were set on fire to warn an English ship by the name of "Laputa" of the approaching dangers. The next morning the workers found the "Laputa" had struck the rock, killing all sixteen passengers on board. Only a collie pup survived by clamoring up the rock. Days later, on January 21, 1881, the lighthouse, standing 133 feet above the ocean, was lit for the first time.
Once built, Tillie lost none of it's terror. A crew of 4 was kept on edge with the constant needs of the ocean-besieged stone building and its critical beam of light. As you can imagine, the storms made for wretched conditions; but Tillie saved countless ships, guiding them into the relative safety of the Columbia River.
The constant wear and tear on this lighthouse made it the most expensive to operate in the nation! Because of this, the lighthouse was finally abandoned and the light turned off on September 10, 1957.
This lighthouse is now a bird sanctuary and "cemetery at sea." It is designed to hold more than a half-million urns of human ashes, and is privately owned. See podcast.
The waters off the Oregon coast are said to be amongst the roughest and most dangerous in the world. Shipwrecks were so common that it became known as the "Graveyard of the Pacific". In time, it became apparent, at this spot, that an effective lifesaving measure would be the construction of a lighthouse.
Tillamook Rock Lighthouse--the most notorious in the nation
See podcast.
Tillamook Rock (a volcanic sea stack just like Haystack Rock), located 1 mile out to sea was considered the best location. Here you are treated to your best view of one of the most desolate and unique lighthouses ever to exist in the US..., if not the entire world... Tillamook Rock Lighthouse (AKA "Terrible Tilly").
Terrible Tilly, the battered, besieged and occasionally submerged lighthouse clinging to the top of a a bleak island, operated from 1881 to 1957. "Terrible Tillys" light was repeatedly overswept by winter storms that dashed water, rocks and fish into the lantern room 150 feet above normal sea level, often breaking lenses and windows. For lighthouse keepers, it was the most demanding post on the West Coast.
With 525 wrenched days of construction, workers had to improvise to overcome the many challenges. 30 feet of rock was blasted to create a flat structure for workers to build on. They struggled through 3 winters, huddled in canvas shelters and behind stone walls, lashed by winds, soaked by breakers and often stuck for months without supplies. The construction claimed one man's life, a construction surveyor swept away by the surf and drowned in his attempt to land on the rock.
Just days before the final completion, workers heard a ship approaching in the night. The lighthouse was not prepared for lighting, so driftwood and lanterns were set on fire to warn an English ship by the name of "Laputa" of the approaching dangers. The next morning the workers found the "Laputa" had struck the rock, killing all sixteen passengers on board. Only a collie pup survived by clamoring up the rock. Days later, on January 21, 1881, the lighthouse, standing 133 feet above the ocean, was lit for the first time.
Once built, Tillie lost none of it's terror. A crew of 4 was kept on edge with the constant needs of the ocean-besieged stone building and its critical beam of light. As you can imagine, the storms made for wretched conditions; but Tillie saved countless ships, guiding them into the relative safety of the Columbia River.
The constant wear and tear on this lighthouse made it the most expensive to operate in the nation! Because of this, the lighthouse was finally abandoned and the light turned off on September 10, 1957.
This lighthouse is now a bird sanctuary and "cemetery at sea." It is designed to hold more than a half-million urns of human ashes, and is privately owned. See podcast.
- Les Shirley Park - This spot commemorates the southermost and furthest point visited by Lewis & Clark back in 1806. When William Clark, Sacagawea, and others from the Lewis and Clark expedition hiked here in 1806 they found Indians using hot stones in wooden troughs to render blubber from a 105-foot beached whale. Here, just north of the creek near a Tillamook Indian village at the head of the creek, Clark saw the "skelleton of this monster" stripped by the Indians & bought as much blubber as the tribe would sell—300 pounds—to supplement the expedition’s lean diet, and named nearby Ecola Creek after the Indians’ word for whale, ekoli. They celebrate the spot across the creek at Whale Park, our next stop. Interpretive signs and trail.
Cannon Beach got its natatorium in 1924, where the Whale Park now sits. This hosted up to 200 people with a 30-foot by 60-foot pool of heated salt water. Like the two in Seaside, this one also had a balcony, but it also had a jukebox where people did the Jitterbug and other jazz-era dances. An added extra: they had movies playing on the outside wall after dark. The “Nat" managed to survive the Great Depression. But about 1942, wartime rations and a shortage of chlorine and heating oil killed off Cannon Beach's natatorium. https://www.beachconnection.net/news/natator040316_1102.php |
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- The arts-oriented village offers what other Oregon beach towns offer, but with a bit more class. The town, located on one of Oregon’s most beautiful beaches, is grappling with its own popularity—and seems to be winning. Clusters of tasteful shops and boutiques fill the small, busy downtown. Strolling lovers, sandcastling kids, and kite fliers dot the white sand beach. Puffins, cormorants, and murres watch from scenic, protected islands.
*Before and after the Cannons, Cannon Beach has a most interesting history. This museum features the USS Sharks cannons, a native-American longhouse and much more. Open daily 11-4pm.
Where To Eat: (ALL EATS)
$3 Taco Tuesday's, $6 Wednesday's Burger, Beer & Fries 4pm-close
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Haystack Rock:
Haystack Rock is a unique monolith that attracts wildlife and tourists alike"
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Cannon Beach's most famous landmark is Haystack Rock. Walk out to get the best view of the massive Rock, one of the largest "inter-tidal" (meaning it can be reached by land) monoliths (meaning a single stone rock) on the Pacific coast, and the world!.
It's a 235-foot volcanic sea stack. A sea stack is a vertical column of rock in the sea near the coast formed by wave erosion. It is a National Wildlife Refuge. The colorful tide pools are home to many inter-tidal animals, including starfish, sea anemone, crabs, chitons, limpets, and sea slugs. It's a bird sanctuary and a nesting site for sea birds, including terns and Tuffed Puffins (see right). Admire—but don’t bother—the birds and marine life that dwell in the tide pools. Composed of basalt, the rock was formed by lava flows emanating from the Columbia R. Basalt Group 15 million years ago. Over 300 separate flows emanated from these calderas. The lava flows traveled hundreds of miles and created many of the Oregon coast's natural features, including Tillamook Head (Ecola SP), Arch Cape, and Saddle Mountain. Included is our own Gingko Flow, which in the space of a week traveled over 300 miles to what is now Cannon Beach, burrowing into the soft ocean sediment and in various spots re-erupting on the sea floor (then 1,000 feet lower than it is now), forming secondary, or “submarine” volcanoes. The now-eroded throat of one such formation is Haystack Rock. Three smaller, adjacent rock formations to the south of Haystack Rock are collectively called "The Needles". The best way to view it is up close & barefoot on the beach. Haystack Rock is a designated Marine Garden; therefore, do not take anything from the area and do not climb the rock!...even though it's tempting. The sea life here is fragile, treat it with care and do not step on them! Use extreme caution while in this area, the tides are swift and easily catch the unaware visitor...we don't want anyone drifting out to sea or caught somewhere high on a rock surrounded by raging sea waves. Many persons each year get stranded on Haystack Rock. |
Tufted puffins form dense breeding colonies during the summer reproductive season. During the winter feeding season, they spend their time almost exclusively at sea.
Found only in the North Pacific, they nest mostly in deep burrows that it digs into cliffs with its bill and feet. These burrows can be more than 5 feet deep. They dive, capture and hold multiple small fish crosswise in its bill, routinely 5 to 20 fish at a time, for delivery to chicks at the nest. Adults eat their own food while still under water. The oldest recorded Tufted Puffin was at least 6 years old when it was found in Alaska, the same state where it had been banded. |
Hug Point -
See podcast.
Before the highway was built, stagecoaches ran along the beach here. Walk along the beach to the waterfall, sea cave and the original old postal road carved into the point that "hugged' the coastline. The view North includes Haystack Rock. See podcast.
See podcast.
Before the highway was built, stagecoaches ran along the beach here. Walk along the beach to the waterfall, sea cave and the original old postal road carved into the point that "hugged' the coastline. The view North includes Haystack Rock. See podcast.
Oswald West Sp - the place with the best seascapes, most magnificent setting on the coast!
Included here is:
- Smuggler's Cove
- Devil's Cauldron (AKA Pirates Treasure Cove)
- Neahkanie Mtn. Overlook
Smuggler's Cove & Cape falcon in Oswald West State Park/ Neahkanhie Mtn hike
See podcast.
Join locals at Short Sand Beach, accessed by a meandering half-mile path. Hike through old-growth Sitka Spruce forest and climb over some handsomely weathered ocean debris towards picturesque Smuggler's Cove (legend has it there's pirate's buried treasure here) at Short Sand Beach, a 1/2 mile walk nestled in the Oswald West State Park. Grab the map at the kiosk! See legendary Spanish gold podcast.
See podcast.
Join locals at Short Sand Beach, accessed by a meandering half-mile path. Hike through old-growth Sitka Spruce forest and climb over some handsomely weathered ocean debris towards picturesque Smuggler's Cove (legend has it there's pirate's buried treasure here) at Short Sand Beach, a 1/2 mile walk nestled in the Oswald West State Park. Grab the map at the kiosk! See legendary Spanish gold podcast.
Devil's Cauldron - Overlook & single most magnificent setting on the Oregon coast
The Devils Cauldron (AKA Pirate's Treasure cove) is a cliff-backed cove just south of Short Sand Beach. The ocean swells churn and froth around a handful of sea stacks, including Cube Rock, making this a spectacular view on a fine day. The viewpoint can be reached by a semi-steep, rocky and often muddy trail, so wear appropriate footwear. Hike is only about 5-10 minutes each way.
Once there...be very careful at the overlooks because there may not be railings to keep you from falling 200 feet into the ocean.
The Devils Cauldron (AKA Pirate's Treasure cove) is a cliff-backed cove just south of Short Sand Beach. The ocean swells churn and froth around a handful of sea stacks, including Cube Rock, making this a spectacular view on a fine day. The viewpoint can be reached by a semi-steep, rocky and often muddy trail, so wear appropriate footwear. Hike is only about 5-10 minutes each way.
Once there...be very careful at the overlooks because there may not be railings to keep you from falling 200 feet into the ocean.
Neahkahnie Mountain:
See podcast.
"For scenic value, this section of highway is the equal of anything offered along the 400 miles of Oregon's coastline"
Neahkahnie Mountain juts 1600 feet above the beach. Indians thought it a viewpoint fit for gods, and named it with the words Ne (“place of”) and Ekahni (“supreme deity”). White men shroud the peak with legend as well. Treasure seekers sift the beach at the mountain’s base, spurred by tales of gold buried by sailors from a shipwrecked 17th century Spanish galleon, Santo Cristo de Burgos. The discovery here of strangely inscribed blocks of beeswax, possibly of Spanish origin, adds to the speculation. See beeswax podcasts.
See podcast.
"For scenic value, this section of highway is the equal of anything offered along the 400 miles of Oregon's coastline"
Neahkahnie Mountain juts 1600 feet above the beach. Indians thought it a viewpoint fit for gods, and named it with the words Ne (“place of”) and Ekahni (“supreme deity”). White men shroud the peak with legend as well. Treasure seekers sift the beach at the mountain’s base, spurred by tales of gold buried by sailors from a shipwrecked 17th century Spanish galleon, Santo Cristo de Burgos. The discovery here of strangely inscribed blocks of beeswax, possibly of Spanish origin, adds to the speculation. See beeswax podcasts.
Manzanita...
- Eat a secret dessert - Save room for dessert at the Sand Dune Pub (127 Laneda Ave.), which has a killer, silky-smooth peanut butter chocolate pie that sits off-menu (you must request it!), because it was too popular. The pie should be washed down with a $5 pint and enjoyed on the patio.
- Seaside villages of Manzanita, Wheeler, Garibaldi, Rockaway Beach & others. While in Garibaldi, one can grab some Gourmet Albacore Tuna, Chinook Salmon, Dungeness Crab, Shrimp and more to go, all harvested from the icy waters of the Pacific Ocean by local fisherman. Bring a ice cooler because you can buy fresh Dungeness crab and seafood at the Garibaldi Cannery right off the boats.
Tillamook
Bayocean
During your excursion today, you'll pass what was once the thriving ocean resort town of Bay Ocean, sometimes known as "the town that fell into the sea". It was the envisioned Atlantic City of the West Coast, complete with a dance hall, a hotel with orchestra, a 1000-seat movie theater, a shooting range, a bowling alley, tennis courts, a rail system, four miles of paved streets and a heated natatorium, complete with a wave generator and a special section for a band to play music to entertain the swimmers. It was located across Tillamook Bay from Garibaldi and Bay City. It's gone now, more than 50 years ago Bay Ocean washed into the Pacific Ocean; houses, businesses, everything...GONE during raging Pacific storms. The town's unforeseen destruction is believed by many to have been caused by the residents themselves.
Here's the story:
Despite having paved roads, Bayocean was not connected to the rest of the country until the 1920s. Most residents and tourists arrived to the town via T. B. Potter's steamship, the S.S. Bayocean, in a three-day trip from Portland.
The final leg of the journey, entering into the unprotected mouth of Tillamook Bay, could provide a rough and frightening experience to passengers. Eventually Bayocean's residents asked the Army Corps of Engineers for a protective jetty to reduce the waves.
The Corps studied the location and suggested that two jetties be built, one on each side of the bay's mouth, at an estimated cost of $2.2 million. Half of that amount was required to come from local residents.
With the multimillion-dollar price considered unaffordable, Bayocean's residents had a single jetty constructed at less than 1/2 the cost.
Although the new single jetty made for a much smoother journey into the bay, the one-sided change to the coastline began a process of erosion to Bayocean's beaches, slowly narrowing them before overtaking them completely.
In 1932, waves from a massive storm finally crossed the beach and destroyed the huge natatorium. The spit itself was further damaged by winter storms in 1939, 1942, 1948, and by 1952 what was left of Bayocean had become an island. What little remained of the town was demolished during the reclamation and dike-building project of 1956.
In 1960, Bayocean's last house was washed away, and in 1971, the last remaining building, a garage, finally fell into the ocean.
All that remains is a commemorative sign at the south end of the county park.
http://www.pdxhistory.com/html/bayocean.html
More Info
Three Capes Loop - The Three Capes Loop is the Oregon Coast's 38-mile thrilling & scenic driving experience. The loop will wind along the coast between the towns of Tillamook Oregon and Pacific City. You will pass three prominent headlands: Cape Meares, Cape Lookout, and Cape Kiwanda.
During your excursion today, you'll pass what was once the thriving ocean resort town of Bay Ocean, sometimes known as "the town that fell into the sea". It was the envisioned Atlantic City of the West Coast, complete with a dance hall, a hotel with orchestra, a 1000-seat movie theater, a shooting range, a bowling alley, tennis courts, a rail system, four miles of paved streets and a heated natatorium, complete with a wave generator and a special section for a band to play music to entertain the swimmers. It was located across Tillamook Bay from Garibaldi and Bay City. It's gone now, more than 50 years ago Bay Ocean washed into the Pacific Ocean; houses, businesses, everything...GONE during raging Pacific storms. The town's unforeseen destruction is believed by many to have been caused by the residents themselves.
Here's the story:
Despite having paved roads, Bayocean was not connected to the rest of the country until the 1920s. Most residents and tourists arrived to the town via T. B. Potter's steamship, the S.S. Bayocean, in a three-day trip from Portland.
The final leg of the journey, entering into the unprotected mouth of Tillamook Bay, could provide a rough and frightening experience to passengers. Eventually Bayocean's residents asked the Army Corps of Engineers for a protective jetty to reduce the waves.
The Corps studied the location and suggested that two jetties be built, one on each side of the bay's mouth, at an estimated cost of $2.2 million. Half of that amount was required to come from local residents.
With the multimillion-dollar price considered unaffordable, Bayocean's residents had a single jetty constructed at less than 1/2 the cost.
Although the new single jetty made for a much smoother journey into the bay, the one-sided change to the coastline began a process of erosion to Bayocean's beaches, slowly narrowing them before overtaking them completely.
In 1932, waves from a massive storm finally crossed the beach and destroyed the huge natatorium. The spit itself was further damaged by winter storms in 1939, 1942, 1948, and by 1952 what was left of Bayocean had become an island. What little remained of the town was demolished during the reclamation and dike-building project of 1956.
In 1960, Bayocean's last house was washed away, and in 1971, the last remaining building, a garage, finally fell into the ocean.
All that remains is a commemorative sign at the south end of the county park.
http://www.pdxhistory.com/html/bayocean.html
More Info
Three Capes Loop - The Three Capes Loop is the Oregon Coast's 38-mile thrilling & scenic driving experience. The loop will wind along the coast between the towns of Tillamook Oregon and Pacific City. You will pass three prominent headlands: Cape Meares, Cape Lookout, and Cape Kiwanda.
Cape Meares - Established in 1938, consists of vertical coastal cliffs, rock outcroppings, and rolling headlands with old-growth forest of Sitka spruce and western hemlock. The vertical sea cliffs support nesting seabird populations including tufted puffins, pigeon guillemots, pelagic cormorants, and others. Peregrine falcons nest on the cliffs, and the recently de-listed bald eagle forages on the headland. The flamboyant Tufted Puffins, with their large bright orange beaks and long yellow head tufts are one of the most recognizable seabirds on the Oregon coast. The refuge also supports the largest breeding colony of Common Murre south of Alaska and is the only pupping site on the north Oregon coast for Steller sea lion. Measuring 10' in length and weighing up to 2,000 pounds, this sea lion is the larger of the two sea lions found on the Oregon coast. In winter and spring, here is an excellent location for viewing whale migrations.
The Lighthouse
Tour the 125 year old lighthouse. The park features tours of an 1890s lighthouse open daily April 1-Oct. 31, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. The view of the Pacific Ocean from high above is majestic. The parking lot was once the keeper's dwelling and barn. The path you follow down to the lighthouse is the same path that the keepers once used.
On January 1, 1890, the lighthouse was 1st lit. At this time, the lighthouse consisted of a fire-wick kerosene lamp and an eight-paneled lens that had both red and clear panels to create a red flash every minute. Cape Meares' light could be seen for 21 miles.
This lighthouse (Open daily April 1-Oct. 31, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.) doesn't offer many stories of peril like its sister lighthouses on the Oregon coast. The story of Cape Meares reads much like "Little House on the Prairie." A number of families took care of this lighthouse through its years. Cape Meares Lighthouse experienced weddings, childbirth, and one death. A keeper, and new father, by the name of George Hunt became sick and died from severe pneumonia on July 10, 1903. While tending a lighthouse may seem like a fun job, it comes with a price. Most lighthouses, including Cape Meares, were a good distance and difficult journey from the rest of civilization.
Cape Meares has over 3 miles of hiking trails that winds through old-growth spruce trees (including Big Spruce, Oregon's largest Sitka Spruce, and the uniquely-shaped 'Octopus Tree'.
The "Octopus Tree" is an ancient Sitka Spruce with many legs.
- Spring is the best time to view the Peregrine Falcons and nesting Common Murres on the rocks.
- During the winter months, you can see a different assortment of wildlife from the headland, including migrating gray whales, three species of scoters, Western Grebes, and Common Loons.
- A pair of Peregrine Falcon, a species recovered from the brink of extinction, has nested on the refuge since 1987. A wildlife viewing deck at Cape Meares State Scenic Viewpoint offers visitors a glimpse into the eyrie, or nest site, of the falcon pair from early April through July providing an unparalleled opportunity to witness the magic of the fastest animal on the planet.
The Lighthouse
Tour the 125 year old lighthouse. The park features tours of an 1890s lighthouse open daily April 1-Oct. 31, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. The view of the Pacific Ocean from high above is majestic. The parking lot was once the keeper's dwelling and barn. The path you follow down to the lighthouse is the same path that the keepers once used.
On January 1, 1890, the lighthouse was 1st lit. At this time, the lighthouse consisted of a fire-wick kerosene lamp and an eight-paneled lens that had both red and clear panels to create a red flash every minute. Cape Meares' light could be seen for 21 miles.
This lighthouse (Open daily April 1-Oct. 31, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.) doesn't offer many stories of peril like its sister lighthouses on the Oregon coast. The story of Cape Meares reads much like "Little House on the Prairie." A number of families took care of this lighthouse through its years. Cape Meares Lighthouse experienced weddings, childbirth, and one death. A keeper, and new father, by the name of George Hunt became sick and died from severe pneumonia on July 10, 1903. While tending a lighthouse may seem like a fun job, it comes with a price. Most lighthouses, including Cape Meares, were a good distance and difficult journey from the rest of civilization.
Cape Meares has over 3 miles of hiking trails that winds through old-growth spruce trees (including Big Spruce, Oregon's largest Sitka Spruce, and the uniquely-shaped 'Octopus Tree'.
The "Octopus Tree" is an ancient Sitka Spruce with many legs.
- This tree is a giant that is 50 feet in circumference, and has six limbs that are 12-feet around, making it look like an octopus. The park service is not sure if this tree grew naturally this way, or as they suspect, was trained into this position by Native Americans. The Octopus Tree may be more than 250 years old. Once featured in Ripley’s Believe It or Not, the tree has been described as one of the modern Wonders of the World. One of the many sacred evergreens on the North Coast, the Octopus Tree was specially venerated, probably serving as the gathering site for important Tillamook tribal rites.
- Typical of such specially chosen trees, the branches of this spruce were forced downward toward a horizontal position when they were still flexible, finally extending about 16 feet from the base. When allowed to resume vertical growth, each branch reached skyward to more than 100 feet, creating the distinctive shape.
- Over the years, this curious spruce has also borne the name Monstrosity Tree and Candelabra Tree. But it is persistently called the Council Tree, a place of reverence where elders once made decisions and where shamans performed ceremonies. Today the Octopus Tree is not only a historic site, but also a botanical wonder. More
- Three Arch Rocks (see VIDEO); the Three Arch Rocks was declared a National Wildlife Refuge in the early 1900s by President Theodore Roosevelt. It is the home for many types of bird life and an area frequented by sea lions and hang gliders alike. Designated as the first National Wildlife Refuge west of the Mississippi River, Three Arch Rocks Refuge lies ½ mile offshore of the community of Oceanside.
- Big Spruce became the biggest Sitka Spruce in 2007 when the Klootchy Creek Spruce near Seaside lost its upper half in the notorious December 2007 wind storm. .The Cape Meares spuce is 144 feet tall, 48 feet in circumference, 15.5 feet in diameter and an estimated 750 to 800 years old. (Find it by parking at the main parking lot. Instead of walking the paved trail down to the lighthouse, head for the northside viewing deck. A trail near the deck heads up into an old-growth forest. You pass many an impressive giant, but you'll know Big Spruce when you see it. It's also signed. The walk is about a quartermile.)
